Sad Panda, Happy Panda

As shlaowais, we’ve all had our “China days”.  The days when a 12 kuai taxi ride becomes a 21 kuai taxi ride.  The days when you get mildly shaken down by the police because you registered one day late.  The days when your landlord inexplicably evicts you.  The days when every single thing in China seems to be poised to make your life difficult, annoying, miserable.

China days can seriously make you hate living here.  They can make you glare at every local person you pass on the sidewalk, cursing them under your breath because you know you just paid 30% more than them for produce from a street vendor.  China days can ruin your faith in humanity.  And make you a sad panda.

No no no, that's not what I'm saying. At all.

But then there are things that happen in China that repair your outlook on life, and make you realize that the laws, people and culture of the Middle Kingdom do NOT exist for the sole purpose of getting you down.  Two recent events led to this commentary – allow me to share.

Back in December, I was getting ready to go on a short trip to Vietnam.  I packed my suitcase and brought it to work, planning to go straight to from the office to the airport.  Except – cue sick feeling in stomach – the luggage didn’t even make it to the office.  Because I left it in the trunk of the taxi that took me to work.  I also didn’t get a receipt for that taxi, because I never do.  But you know who did?  George, the guy who opens the door when taxis pull up to our building.  George heroically saved my receipt that day and was able to get my suitcase back to me in just a few hours.  Without George, my luggage would have been lost forever; my trip ruined, my mental health destroyed.  George really came through for me that day, and he was duly rewarded with cold hard cash* and a complimentary letter to his supervisor.

Even more recently, a friend left his laptop case and RMB 6,000 at the ATM of a China Construction Bank.  Again, the sick feeling when he realized what he had done.  Had it been stolen?  Would the cash be gone?  Would the computer and several months’ work also be lost?  But when he got back to the scene of the crime (‘crime’ sounds better than ‘huge moment of retardation’), the case – and all of its contents – had been collected by the building guard, and promptly submitted to the nearest police station.  Everything was returned to its owner after minimal questioning.  Again, cold hard cash* flowed into the proper hands, and huge sighs of relief were breathed by all.  Then huge glasses of whiskey were consumed by all.

I guess it’s some kind of inverse xenophobia, but I had come to expect the worst from my many China days and what I perceived to be poor treatment by the locals.  But when I thought about it more, the only time I’d ever gotten any lost or stolen goods back in the western world was in Amsterdam, and that place is like some kind of fake dreamscape (because of how everyone is always on mushrooms and stuff).

For all the annoying, horrible shit that can happen to us in China as foreigners, when people as good as George and the unnamed CCB security guard get you out of some rotten fuck-ups, the bad can quickly melt away into the good.

And make you a happy panda.

*Cash money was not solicited by any of the heroes in this story.

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